Traditional Japanese Ryokan and Hot Spring: Yaeikan Hakone Experience

Hakone Ryokan Stay: Yaeikan Review with Private Onsen Experience

Why We Chose Hakone and a Private Onsen Ryokan

During our last trip to Japan, we took a short getaway from Tokyo to Hakone, a region famous for its hot springs (onsen), nature, and traditional inns (ryokan). However, one challenge we faced was that my husband has tattoos, and as many travellers know, most public onsens in Japan restrict tattooed guests.

Because of this, I specifically searched for a Hakone ryokan with private onsen attached to the room. After comparing options, we decided on Yaeikan, a traditional ryokan conveniently located near Hakone-Yumoto Station.

Location and Accessibility

Yaeikan is located about a 10-minute walk from Hakone-Yumoto Station, which is the main gateway to Hakone. The route is mostly flat, lined with small local shops, snack stalls, and souvenir stores, making the short walk enjoyable.

👉 Tip: If you are travelling with large luggage, the narrow and busy pathways near the shops can feel inconvenient.

Shuttle Service

The ryokan also offers a pick-up service from Hakone-Yumoto Station. While often referred to as "free," it actually charges 100 yen per person, and you need to arrange it in advance. This can be very helpful if you don’t want to walk with luggage.

Our Room: Yugiri (Traditional Tatami Style)

We stayed in the Yugiri room, a spacious 53㎡ tatami-style suite. The room had sliding paper doors, futon bedding, and traditional décor. While some furniture showed signs of age, we appreciated the sense of history—Yaeikan has been welcoming guests for over 100 years.

The highlight was the private onsen bath attached to the room, which allowed us to enjoy hot springs without worrying about tattoo restrictions.

Onsen Facilities at Yaeikan

Family Bath (Reservation Required)

• Must be reserved at check-in (30 minutes per family).

• Small in size, with very hot water.

• Open-air but slightly stuffy due to steam.

• Nice option for couples or families wanting privacy.

Public Baths (Men & Women Alternate)

• Open-air bath surrounded by nature.

• Compact but peaceful—when I used the women’s bath, I had the entire space to myself for 40 minutes.

• Includes a small shower area with multiple shower heads.

⚠️ Note: If having a wide range of onsen options is your top priority, other Hakone ryokan may offer larger and more diverse facilities.

The Yaeikan-Yugiri room, where we stayed

Dining: Kaiseki Dinner and Breakfast

One of the biggest highlights of staying at a ryokan is the kaiseki meals, and Yaeikan didn’t disappoint.

• Dinner: A multi-course Japanese feast, beautifully presented and served in the room. Dishes were fresh, seasonal, and thoughtfully prepared. We especially enjoyed the small brazier that kept soups warm throughout the meal.

• Breakfast: A simpler but still balanced and satisfying Japanese-style meal.

👉The only downside was that the menu was written only in Japanese, so non-Japanese speakers may need to rely on visual presentation or a translation app.

Yaeikan provides a menu for dinner and breakfast. Unfortunately, it is written in ONLY Japanese. 

Kaiseki - dinner (food wasn't yet all served)

Kaiseki- breakfast

Pros and Cons

Pros of Staying at Yaeikan:

• The sound of the nearby stream created a calming and peaceful atmosphere.

• Meals were outstanding, with authentic kaiseki presentation and flavours.

• The traditional setting offered a true ryokan experience.

• Beautiful village scenery, especially at night—perfect for photography

Hakone main street before the shops fully close

Once all the shops close, the main street—along with nearby residences and ryokans around Yumoto Station—becomes very quiet and relaxing.

A peaceful residential street at night

Cons of Staying at Yaeikan

• The slippers provided were slippery and uncomfortable.

• Limited English communication with staff. (I can speak Japanese, but non-Japanese speakers may find it challenging.)

• Onsen facilities were smaller compared to some luxury ryokan in Hakone.

Price and Value for Money

For our one-night stay in November 2023, we paid 48,856 yen, which included:

• A spacious tatami room with a private onsen.

• Dinner and breakfast (kaiseki-style).

• Attentive service.

Considering the location, meals, and private onsen experience, I felt it was well worth the price.

Final Thoughts: Who Should Stay at Yaeikan?

Yaeikan is ideal for travellers who:

• Want a traditional ryokan experience close to Hakone-Yumoto Station.

• Need a private onsen option due to tattoos or personal preference.

• Appreciate authentic Japanese meals and hospitality.

However, if you’re looking for a luxury onsen resort with large public baths and spa facilities, you may want to explore other Hakone ryokan.

For us, Yaeikan was the perfect introduction to Japanese ryokan culture, and it gave my husband a chance to experience the onsen tradition comfortably.

*This review is based on my personal experience, and results may vary for others. Please take it as a friendly reference.